What to Do With Old Fur Coats

A few winters ago I opened a cedar chest and found an old mink coat wrapped in tissue. It belonged to my grandmother. The pelts were still glossy, but the cut looked like something out of a black-and-white photo. I didn’t want to throw it away.

I also didn’t want it to gather dust for another decade. That moment sent me down a rabbit hole of research, phone calls, and experiments.

Since then I’ve helped friends evaluate vintage furs, turn damaged coats into surprisingly modern pieces, and donate others where they would be used.

If you are staring at a fur coat and wondering what to do with it, this guide is for you. I will walk you through how to evaluate what you have, your options for selling, donating, upcycling, or preserving it, and what each path really takes in time and money.

I will share personal tips I learned the hard way, a few simple projects you can try, and mistakes to avoid so you do not ruin something irreplaceable.

This is not a moral lecture. People inherit furs. People find them in closets. People change their views and their lifestyles. The point here is to make a smart, thoughtful decision with the piece in front of you, then follow through with confidence.

The Fast Decision Framework

Before you choose a path, take twenty minutes to inspect the coat. Grab a clean white cloth, a tape measure, and good light.

You will use this quick check to decide if the coat is best for resale, redesign, donation, or keepsake projects.

Step 1: Identify the fur and build quality

• Type of fur: Mink is the most common, followed by fox, beaver, sable, rabbit, Persian lamb, and nutria. If you are not sure, rub the hair between your fingers. Mink has short guard hairs with a plush underfur. Fox feels much longer and airier. Beaver is dense and heavy. Rabbit is very soft but often sheds.
• Labels and tags: Look for a maker’s label, a furrier’s name, or a union label. A store label from a major city can help with resale and historical value.
• Construction: High quality furs have even pelts, neat seams, and a smooth drape. Turn it inside out if you can. Good linings are hand stitched and often have a monogram.

Step 2: Check condition

• Shedding test: Gently tug a few hairs with a white cloth. Light shedding is normal. If you get a snowstorm of hair, the leather may be dry or rotten.
• Flex test: Hold a hidden seam and flex it. If you hear crackling or see the leather split, the coat is not wearable without serious restoration.
• Odor: Musty, smoky, or oily smells matter. Strong odors can be reduced, but not always removed.
• Hardware and lining: Missing buttons, broken hooks, or torn lining are fixable, but list them.

Step 3: Decide your goal

• Resell for cash: Best if the coat is in good or very good condition and a desirable fur or brand.
• Upcycle into something you will wear or use: Good if the coat is dated or a bit damaged but has solid pelts.
• Donate or lend: Useful if you want it out of the house and prefer it to be used by students, theaters, or historical groups.
• Keep as an heirloom or memory: Right when the sentimental value outweighs other concerns.

A simple rule I use

• If the leather is cracking or the coat smells strongly of mildew, I do not sell it as a wearable coat. I salvage usable panels for smaller items or keepsakes and discard the rest.
• If the pelts are soft and the seams are stable, I consider resale or a full redesign by a pro.

Your Options at a Glance

Here is a quick comparison to help you match your goal with the right path.

Selling or Consigning an Old Fur Coat

Selling a fur can be rewarding if you approach it like a small project. I do not promise quick riches. The market for vintage fur is real but specific. The more work you put into accurate info and good photos, the better your outcome.

Step-by-step guide to selling

1. Get a basic appraisal or opinion
   • Call a reputable furrier or a vintage specialist. Ask if they provide written opinions. Many will give ballpark values after a quick inspection.
   • If that is not available, compare similar items on high quality resale platforms to gauge a range. Focus on actual sold prices, not list prices.
2. Prep the coat
   • Brush gently with a soft clothes brush. Do not use water.
   • Air it on a wide hanger for a day. Avoid sun and heat.
   • If the lining has lint or hair, use a lint roller on the lining only.
3. Photograph like a pro
   • Shoot in natural indirect light. Avoid flash.
   • Take full front, back, and side shots on a simple hanger or dress form. Add detail shots of fur texture, seams, labels, and any flaws.
   • Add a measuring tape photo for sleeve length, shoulder width, and total length.
4. Write an honest listing
   • Include type of fur, color, size, condition, lining, closures, and any history you know.
   • Disclose flaws. Buyers of vintage appreciate transparency.
   • Use calm language and avoid hype. It builds trust.
5. Choose your selling channel
   • Local consignment: Lower effort, lower payout, longer timeline. Ask about commission rates, typically 30 to 50 percent.
   • Specialist dealers or auction houses: Good for luxury labels or rare pieces. They take a fee but bring serious buyers.
   • Private sale: Highest effort, highest control. Meet in safe public places.
6. Price smart
   • Start within the actual range you observed. Overpricing stalls the listing and makes people suspicious.
   • Be ready to accept reasonable offers. Vintage markets move on realism.
7. Ship or hand over safely
   • Use a wide hanger, garment bag, and a sturdy box. Do not compress the fur tightly.
   • Require signature on delivery. Insurance is worth it.

Upcycling and Redesigning a Fur You Will Actually Use

If you like the idea of owning something made from the fur, upcycling is the path with the most creative payoffs. You can go DIY for small items or work with a tailor or furrier for a full remodel.

What can you turn a fur coat into

• Gilet or vest: Remove sleeves and reshape the armholes. This instantly modernizes a dated coat.
• Bomber or cropped jacket: Shorten the body, add a ribbed hem and cuffs, swap out bulky shoulder pads.
• Parkas and wool coats with fur linings: Use fur panels as removable liners or body facings for warmth.
• Home goods: Throws, pillow covers, foot muffs, seat cushions. These are great for coats with wear near the cuffs or hem.
• Accessories: Hats, ear muffs, scarves, collars, cuffs, mittens, muff bags, or pom-poms for knit caps.
• Trim only: Add a fur collar to a denim jacket, edge a hood, or line pockets.

How to choose between DIY and pro work

• DIY is fine for collars, cuffs, hats, pillow fronts, small bags, and ornaments.
• Hire a pro when you need to cut through multiple pelts, change the pattern, or rebuild closures. Fur stretches differently than woven fabric. A specialist will block and stitch it so the new piece lasts.

Step-by-step: Turn an old fur coat into a throw blanket

This project gives you a beautiful object without fussy sizing. I have done this twice and both turned out better than expected.

1. Plan the size
   • Measure your ideal throw, for example 50 by 60 inches. Sketch panel layout based on the coat seams.
2. Harvest panels
   • Carefully unpick the lining by hand. Save the lining if it is silk. Remove hooks and buttons for later.
   • Lay the coat fur side down. Mark your cut lines on the leather side with tailor’s chalk. Cut with a sharp craft blade, not scissors, so you do not blunt cut the hair.
3. Stabilize the leather
   • Old leather can be dry. A pro will recondition it. At home, keep handling gentle and avoid stretching.
4. Arrange and join panels
   • Place panels fur side down edge to edge. Use a whip stitch or baseball stitch with strong polyester thread through the leather only. Keep your stitches small and even. Do not catch the hair in the seam.
5. Add a backing
   • Use a thick flannel, velvet, or wool blend as the backing. Cut to the exact size of your finished fur panel. Place backings right sides together, sew around the edges, leave a small gap, turn inside out, and hand stitch the gap.
6. Finish
   • Brush the fur lightly and give it time to relax on a flat surface. Avoid heat sources.

Costs and time: Backing fabric and thread can run 25 to 60. The biggest cost is your time. I set aside a weekend afternoon. If you hire a pro, expect a few hundred for labor, depending on size and condition.

Step-by-step: Convert a dated coat to a modern vest

1. Mark the new armholes
   • Try the coat on. Use chalk to draw where a comfortable armhole would fall on a vest.
2. Remove sleeves
   • Unpick seams rather than slicing. You will need the seam allowance.
3. Bind the armholes
   • Use matching leather binding or wool bias tape. Hand stitch to avoid chewing the edge.
4. Adjust the length
   • Hip length is often more modern than full length. Mark, cut from the leather side with a blade, and bind the hem.
5. Swap closures
   • Replace heavy hooks with lighter snaps or a zipper for a cleaner line.

Tip from experience: Protect the work area with an old sheet. The first time I cut a sleeve I found stray hairs for days because I skipped this.

Preserve as an Heirloom or Turn It Into Keepsakes

Not every decision is financial. If a coat is part of your family story, keeping it makes sense. You can store it properly or convert it into smaller keepsakes that multiple family members can share.

How to store a fur correctly at home

• Climate: Cool, dark, and dry. Think hall closet, not attic or basement.
• Hanger: Wide, padded hanger that supports the shoulders.
• Garment bag: Use a breathable cotton or muslin bag. Never plastic. Plastic traps moisture and speeds decay.
• Space: Give it room. Do not crush the fur with other clothes.
• Care: Avoid spraying perfume or hair spray near it. Keep it away from heat sources.
• Air it: Once or twice a season, take it out for an hour to breathe and check for issues.

If the coat is a true heirloom and you plan to keep it long term, a professional cleaning and conditioning can be a good idea. It removes dust and helps the leather stay flexible.

Keepsake ideas when several people want a piece

• Monogrammed teddy bears or small animals
  • Use the lining silk for the inner ears or paws, and embroider initials.
• Fur-trimmed scarves or collars
  • A narrow strip of fur stitched to wool or cashmere makes a gift that actually gets worn.
• Holiday ornaments
  • Cut small circles of fur and silk backings, sew them together, and add ribbon loops. I made a set of six and mailed them to cousins one year. They were a hit.
• Muff or hand warmer
  • Warm and nostalgic, and practical in cold places.

Recycle Components and Save the Good Bits

Sometimes a coat is simply past its wearable life. That does not mean it is worthless.

• Buttons and closures: Vintage buttons, toggles, and hooks look great on modern coats and bags.
• Silk lining: Good silk can be turned into pocket squares, pouches, or scarf trim.
• Usable panels: Even small pieces of sound pelt can fix other vintage items or be joined into patchwork accessories.
• Labels: If the original maker’s label has style, frame it with a photo. It makes a tiny piece of family history for a desk or shelf.
• Leather binding: If leather trim is intact, it can be repurposed on hats or cuffs.

Personal tip: Keep a zip bag labeled “Fur Salvage” with leftover hooks, labels, and small healthy panels. You will be surprised how often those pieces come in handy later.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using plastic garment bags
  • Plastic traps moisture and encourages mold. Use breathable cotton.
  • Hanging on thin wire hangers
    • They distort the shoulders. Use wide, padded hangers.
  • Storing in attics or basements
    • Heat, humidity, and critters will ruin fur faster than anything.
  • Cutting with scissors from the fur side
    • You will chop the hair and create blunt ends. Always cut from the leather side with a sharp blade.
  • Vacuuming the fur
    • It can pull hair and stretch seams. If you must, use the lowest setting with a fabric brush and keep distance. I usually avoid it.
  • Overcleaning or home dry cleaning kits
    • Fur needs specialized cleaning. Do not experiment with solvents.
  • Ignoring small smells
    • Odors tend to get worse in storage. Air the coat. If the smell persists, be cautious about selling it as wearable.
  • Guessing the fur type with confidence
    • If you are not sure, say so. It protects you and your buyer’s trust.

Conclusion

Old fur coats are tricky because they mix value, history, craft, and personal feelings. There is no single right answer. There are, however, many good ones.

You can sell a high quality piece and put the cash into something you will wear. You can redesign a dated coat into a vest, a throw, or a parka lining. You can donate or lend it to people who will use it well.

You can preserve an heirloom or turn it into keepsakes so the story travels to more than one home. And if the coat is beyond saving, you can still rescue beautiful parts so nothing meaningful goes to the trash.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I tell if my fur coat is real or faux?

Feel the base of the hair. Real fur tapers to a fine point and is set in leather. Faux fur is usually on a woven or knit backing, and the hair feels more uniform. Burn a tiny hidden strand only if you can do it safely. Real hair smells like burnt hair. Synthetic smells like melted plastic. When in doubt, ask a pro.

Is it worth restoring a very old fur?

Sometimes. If the pelts are soft, seams are sound, and the cut suits you, a clean and minor repairs can bring it back. If the leather crackles or tears easily, I would not pour money into restoration. Upcycle the good panels and save your budget.

Can I dye an old fur?

Technically yes, but results vary and can shorten the life of the leather. I only consider dyeing when the color is the only dealbreaker and the pelts are very healthy. Always ask a specialist to test a small area first.

What about smell or mildew?

Light musty odors often reduce with time in a dry, well ventilated room. Persistent mildew usually means the leather absorbed moisture. Professional cleaning can help, but not always. If the smell lingers, I do not sell it as wearable. I repurpose panels for small items that can be aired easily.